Hakone – Onsen Sanctuary in Fuji’s Foothills
Hakone (箱根) is a mountainous resort town in Kanagawa Prefecture, celebrated for its hot springs, natural beauty, and close-up views of Mount Fuji. Part of the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park, Hakone lies about 80 km southwest of Tokyo – roughly a 1.5 to 2 hour journey, making it an easily accessible escape from the capital. Centered around the serene Lake Ashi (Ashinoko) and ringed by wooded hills, Hakone boasts a rich cultural heritage alongside its volcanic landscapes. Historically, it was a key checkpoint on the old Tōkaidō road between Edo (Tokyo) and Kyoto, and travelers for centuries have sought rest and rejuvenation here. Today, Hakone seamlessly blends traditional and modern – Shinto shrines and traditional ryokan inns coexist with art museums and ropeway gondolas. The area’s steaming sulfur vents, lush flower gardens, and clear mountain air provide a scenic backdrop for any visit. Whether you’re drawn by the promise of a Mt. Fuji panorama or the soothing embrace of an onsen bath, Hakone offers a quintessential Japanese retreat known for both its cultural significance and natural splendor, all within easy reach of Tokyo.
What to See and Do
The sparkling blue Lake Ashi, formed in a volcanic crater, is the iconic centerpiece of Hakone. On clear days, the lake’s calm waters beautifully reflect Mount Fuji’s snow-capped cone, creating an unforgettable scene. Visitors can cruise across Lake Ashi on colorful sightseeing boats – including whimsically designed “pirate ship” ferries – that connect Hakone’s port towns. The leisurely boat ride offers 360° vistas of surrounding mountains and dense forests. Strolling along the lakeside in Moto-Hakone or Hakonemachi, you’ll find picturesque viewpoints, cafés, and the ancient cedar-lined path of the Old Tōkaidō. Lake Ashi’s serene scenery is a must-see, whether enjoyed from a ship’s deck or a peaceful shore.
Nestled at the forested foot of Mount Hakone along Lake Ashi’s shore is the Hakone Shrine (Hakone Jinja), a venerable Shintō shrine dating back to 757 AD. This spiritual site is famous nationwide for its enormous vermilion torii gate (the Heiwa-no-Torii, or “Gate of Peace”) that stands dramatically in the lake waters. The shrine’s mossy stone steps, flanked by lanterns and towering cedar trees, lead up to the main hall hidden in the woods. Many feudal-era samurai and later travelers stopped here to pray for safe journeys. Today, visitors come to soak in the mystical atmosphere – especially in the early morning mist – and to photograph the iconic torii framing Lake Ashi with Mount Fuji often visible in the distance. Don’t miss walking through the peaceful forest paths around the shrine and ringing the prayer bell for good fortune.
A visit to Hakone isn’t complete without witnessing the otherworldly landscape of Ōwakudani, also known as the Great Boiling Valley. Created by a volcanic eruption over 3,000 years ago, Ōwakudani is a geothermal valley of steaming sulfur vents, hot springs, and barren rock. You’ll literally smell it before you see it – sulfurous fumes billow from the mountainside, giving the area an active, primordial feel. Visitors can walk designated trails to steaming pools and fumaroles (caution: the sulfur smell is strong but part of the experience!). The most famous novelty here is kuro-tamago, the local “black eggs” hard-boiled in sulfuric hot springs – their shells turn jet black, and legend says eating one adds seven years to your life! The panoramic views from Ōwakudani are spectacular: on a clear day, you can gaze out to Mount Fuji while standing amid volcanic plumes. It’s a striking reminder of Hakone’s volcanic nature. (Note: Ōwakudani’s trails sometimes close if volcanic activity is high, but you can still enjoy the view from the ropeway or observation points.)
Soar above active volcano vents and lake vistas on the Hakone Ropeway, one of the region’s most exciting experiences. This aerial gondola system connects Sōunzan to Togendai (on Lake Ashi) with stops including Ōwakudani, effectively gliding you over the mountains. The ropeway’s 30-minute journey provides a bird’s-eye perspective of Hakone’s dramatic terrain: you’ll see the sulfuric wasteland of Ōwakudani right below your feet, the deep blue of Lake Ashi ahead, and if weather cooperates, an unbeatable view of Mt. Fuji on the horizon. The gondolas are spacious and frequent, making it easy for groups and families to ride together. At the transfer station in Ōwakudani, you can hop off to explore the valley (and sample those black eggs) before continuing. The Hakone Ropeway is not just transit – it’s a scenic thrill ride and photography paradise. Pro tip: try to ride on a clear morning for the best chance to see Mount Fuji unobscured by afternoon clouds.
Art and nature blend harmoniously at the Hakone Open-Air Museum, one of Japan’s most renowned art museums and a highlight of any Hakone itinerary. Spread across spacious lawns and gardens, this museum showcases over a thousand sculptures and artworks in a picturesque outdoor setting surrounded by mountains. As you wander the grounds, you’ll encounter monumental sculptures by international masters like Henry Moore, Barbara Hepworth, and Rodin, as well as Japanese artists, all with backdrop of sky and greenery. There are also indoor pavilions, including the dedicated Picasso Pavilion which houses an impressive collection of over 300 works by Pablo Picasso (from paintings and ceramics to sketches). Children (and the young at heart) will love the creative outdoor play sculptures, like the whimsical mosaic-covered “Woods of Net” structure they can climb inside. Before you leave, soak your feet in the natural hot-spring ashiyu foot bath while enjoying the sculpture garden – a delightfully unique museum experience. The Open-Air Museum perfectly encapsulates Hakone’s spirit: creative, serene, and in tune with nature.
Step back in time along the Old Tōkaidō Highway at Hakone Sekisho, the historical checkpoint on the route that once linked Edo (Tokyo) with Kyoto. During the Edo period, Hakone’s sekisho (checkpoint) was among the most important in Japan, controlling traffic, weapons, and even people (particularly to prevent feudal lords’ wives from leaving Edo). Today, the Hakone Sekisho has been painstakingly reconstructed near its original site on Lake Ashi’s shore. You can tour the wooden gates, guardhouse and barracks, and see exhibits of samurai armor and old travel permits in the small museum, gaining insight into Edo-era travel and governance. After exploring the checkpoint, take a stroll on the Ancient Cedar Avenue – a preserved path of the old Tōkaidō flanked by towering cryptomeria trees planted 400 years ago. Walking this mossy, shaded trail between Hakonemachi and Moto-Hakone feels like moving through history. There’s also a traditional teahouse (Amazake Chaya) along the way where weary travelers have rested for centuries, sipping sweet amazake. Together, the checkpoint and old road bring Hakone’s heritage to life and are well worth a visit for history enthusiasts.
When to Visit
Hakone is a destination for all seasons, each offering a different mood and visual tapestry. Generally, the most popular times are spring and autumn, thanks to pleasant weather and vibrant colors, but there’s truly no bad time to visit this mountain retreat. Here’s a seasonal breakdown:
Spring (March–May): As the chill of winter fades, Hakone’s hillsides come alive with fresh greenery and blooming flowers. While Hakone isn’t as famous for cherry blossoms as some cities, you can still find lovely sakura spots in early April – for instance, along the shores of Lake Ashi and at Gora Park, delicate pink blossoms create a beautiful contrast against the blue lake and snow-capped Mount Fuji. Spring is also when azaleas and dogwood bloom, and Hakone’s botanical gardens burst with color. Temperatures are mild (though still cool at night in March). By late May, the surrounding forests are lush and the weather is comfortable for outdoor activities. Do note that late spring (May) is the beginning of the rainy season.Early Summer & Hydrangea Season (June–early July): Hakone’s rainy season features frequent showers, but it has a silver lining: hydrangeas. The slopes along the Hakone Tozan Railway transform as thousands of hydrangea bushes burst into blue, purple, and pink blossoms. It’s so popular that they run a special “Hydrangea Train” in the evenings, slowing down through illuminated hydrangea tunnels – a magical sight if you don’t mind some rain. Daytime in June is misty and atmospheric, with fewer crowds. Summer (July–August) in Hakone is cooler than Tokyo, making it a refreshing escape from the city’s heat. The mountains are draped in deep green, and it’s a great time for hiking trails like around Hakone Shrine or up Mount Kintoki. Summer skies can offer clear views of Fuji, especially in early morning. Keep in mind that August is a peak travel month (school holidays and Obon festival) – Hakone sees many visitors, and popular spots can be busy. However, summer also brings lively events like the Lake Ashi Summer Festival Weeks, when fireworks light up the night sky over the lake – a memorable experience if your timing is right.
Autumn (September–November): Arguably Hakone’s most breathtaking season. Starting late October through most of November, the region’s abundant maple, beech, and oak trees turn brilliant shades of red, orange, and gold. Cool, crisp air and clear skies make autumn ideal for sightseeing. You can take the Hakone Ropeway or Komagatake Cable Car to see a panorama of autumn colors covering the mountainsides. Notable koyo (fall foliage) spots include the shores of Lake Ashi, the grounds of Hakone Museum of Art (which has a stunning moss garden dotted with fiery maples), and along the hiking paths in Sengokuhara. Early autumn (September) can still be warm and a bit rainy (it’s also typhoon season in Japan, so stay aware of forecasts), but by mid-October the weather stabilizes. November weekends draw many leaf-peepers, so weekdays are calmer. If you visit in autumn, you’ll understand why photographers flock here – picture Mount Fuji crowned with the first snow while foreground trees blaze with color. It’s truly enchanting.Winter (December–February): In winter, Hakone takes on a peaceful charm. Temperatures drop (occasionally below freezing at night) and snowfall can dust the mountaintops and temple roofs, creating a picturesque wintry scene, though heavy snow is infrequent. The air is at its clearest, meaning this is the best time for flawless views of Mount Fuji – often stunningly crisp against blue skies. Many travelers come specifically for that perfect Fuji view in winter. Another winter advantage: far fewer tourists. Imagine soaking in an outdoor onsen with warm steam rising into the cold air, while looking out at a snow-flecked garden – pure bliss! Roads and trains run year-round, though occasional snow might temporarily affect transportation on high routes. Hakone in winter is quiet and great for reflection; the forests are bare but you can see landscape contours better. Pack warm clothes and enjoy attractions like the Open-Air Museum or Pola Museum practically crowd-free. Also, early January brings the Hakone Ekiden, a famous Tokyo-Hakone relay marathon – if you’re around on January 2–3, you might catch the excitement as runners pass through Hakone. All in all, winter offers a tranquil, rejuvenating Hakone experience (often at lower hotel rates), with the bonus of those majestic clear Fuji vistas.
Peak Times & Tips: Hakone’s popularity means weekends and Japanese holidays can be crowded year-round. The busiest periods are Golden Week (late April–early May), mid-August (Obon), and the autumn foliage peak (late Oct–Nov). During these times, accommodation books out far in advance and sights like the ropeway or pirate boats may have long lines. If traveling in peak season, reserve hotels and any private transport early, and consider exploring early in the day to beat day-tripping crowds. Conversely, visiting in off-peak times (winter weekdays, for example) rewards you with serenity and sometimes discounted rates. Whenever you visit, Hakone’s mix of seasonal beauty – from cherry blossoms and hydrangeas to fiery maples and occasional snows – ensures that each trip will have its own unique charm. Just remember to dress in layers, as mountain weather can change quickly, and bring your camera for those postcard-worthy Fuji views!
● Kuro-Tamago (Black Eggs): Perhaps Hakone’s most novel edible souvenir, these black eggs are a must-try in Ōwakudani and also popular to take home for friends. The eggs are ordinary chicken eggs cooked in Ōwakudani’s natural sulfur hot springs, which turns the shells a charcoal black color. According to local folklore, eating one kuro-tamago will extend your life by seven years! They taste like regular boiled eggs (don’t worry, the black color is only skin deep), but the fun lies in the legendary promise and the unique cooking method. You can buy them in mesh bags of five or six at Ōwakudani’s shops – they even come with cute egg cartoons on the packaging. Black eggs have become an iconic Hakone snack and make for a great story to share from your trip (just be mindful of the strong sulfur smell that might linger on them).● Yosegi-Zaiku Marquetry: Hakone’s most famous traditional craft is yosegi-zaiku, a form of wood mosaic artistry. Artisans fuse woods of different natural colors (cherry, dogwood, walnut, etc.) to create intricate geometric patterns, which are then sliced into veneer sheets and applied to various objects. The result is beautiful kaleidoscopic designs in coasters, boxes, trays, and more. A particularly popular item is the Hakone puzzle box (秘密箱 himitsu-bako), a small wooden box covered in yosegi patterns that can only be opened through a series of clever mechanical slides – a fun brain teaser and gorgeous keepsake. You’ll find yosegi-zaiku items in many gift shops around Hakone (especially in Hakonemachi or Moto-Hakone near the docks, and Hakone-Yumoto shopping street). They range from affordable coasters and chopsticks to high-end jewelry boxes. Even if you don’t buy a large piece, consider a yosegi keychain or bookmark as a lightweight souvenir. This craft dates back to the Edo period, and Hakone’s craftsmen keep it very much alive – you might even see live demonstrations at some shops. Owning a piece of yosegi marquetry means taking home a bit of Hakone’s woodcraft heritage.● Onsen Manjū & Local Sweets: Like many onsen towns, Hakone is known for its onsen manjū, which are small steamed buns filled with sweet red bean paste, traditionally steamed using hot spring water. A famous brand is Hakone no Tsuki (“Moon of Hakone”), a soft sponge cake filled with bean paste, sold at Yumoto. Strolling down the Hakone-Yumoto shopping street near the train station, you’ll catch the enticing aroma of these buns and other treats being made fresh. Pick up a box of onsen manjū for a tasty souvenir – they pair perfectly with green tea. Another local sweet is Yumochi, a chewy rice cake made with hot spring water and flavored with sweet bean or miso, available at select confectioners. If you stop by a tea house, try amazake (the sweet rice drink) and perhaps buy a pack of the mix to recreate it at home. Additionally, the nearby city of Odawara (the gateway to Hakone) is famous for umeboshi (pickled plums) and kamaboko (fish cake); you’ll find beautifully packaged versions of these, which make savory souvenirs or gifts for foodies. Don’t forget to sample Hakone’s delightful yuba (tofu skin) dishes or buy some locally made soba noodles – Hakone’s pure mountain water is said to produce excellent buckwheat noodles, and dried soba makes a nice gift for a cook. In short, Hakone offers plenty of edible souvenirs that capture the flavor of the region.● Other Local Crafts & Finds: Aside from yosegi woodwork, look for other artisanal items that reflect Hakone’s culture. Ceramics from nearby areas (like Tochigi or Odawara) are often sold here – you might find a lovely sake set or tea cup with Mount Fuji motifs. Lacquerware (urushi) adorned with Hakone’s scenery or the kanji of “Hakone” can be a fine keepsake. Fans of samurai history might pick up a replica sekisho travel permit or a small katana letter-opener as a nod to Hakone’s checkpoint past. If you enjoyed the art museums, museum shops carry high-quality art prints, scarves, and accessories (the Open-Air Museum’s shop has beautiful design goods). For something truly memorable, consider a bottle of Hakone craft beer or local sake – yes, Hakone has its own craft brewery, and a chilled Hakone Pilsner or ale makes a great way to reminisce about your trip once you’re home. Finally, even a simple postcard or magnet featuring Mount Fuji over Lake Ashi can be a nice memento. Whatever you choose, the local products of Hakone carry the essence of this place – be it the taste of its waters, the touch of its trees, or the imagery of its mountains.
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